Famous Japanese ‘Freak Wave’ Recreated in Lab
researcher Mark McAllister, a research assistant in the Department of Engineering Science at the University of Oxford in England, said in a statement.
“By recreating the Draupner wave in the lab, we have moved one step closer to understanding the potential mechanisms of this phenomenon.”
When ocean waves break under typical circumstances, the fluid velocity at the top of the wave, known as the crest, exceeds the velocity of the crest itself, McAllister told Live Science in an email.
This causes the water in the crest to overtake the wave, and then crash downward as the wave breaks.
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